Lobuche East and Island Peak
Lobuche East (6119m) is one of the most challenging 'trekkers peaks' in the Everest region. It is technically demanding and requires greater commitment and climbing expertise than on Mera Peak.
Our climb is combined with an ascent on nearby Island Peak (6189m) and Pokhalde (5806m). On our approach trek we appreciate the Sherpa villages en route to Gokyo Lakes before heading over the Cho La to the Lobuche East Base Camp. We plan to ascend the South Ridge to a high snow camp from where we are ideally placed to summit and also gain commanding views of Everest.
Following our ascent we trek east to attempt Island Peak (Imja Tse) and Pokhalde Peak to complete this exceptional expedition in the Everest region.
Our climb is combined with an ascent on nearby Island Peak (6189m) and Pokhalde (5806m). On our approach trek we appreciate the Sherpa villages en route to Gokyo Lakes before heading over the Cho La to the Lobuche East Base Camp. We plan to ascend the South Ridge to a high snow camp from where we are ideally placed to summit and also gain commanding views of Everest.
Following our ascent we trek east to attempt Island Peak (Imja Tse) and Pokhalde Peak to complete this exceptional expedition in the Everest region.
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Itinerary / Highlights
DAY 1 Arrive in Kathmandu (1330m)You will be met by your group leader and transferred to the hotel. Remainder of the afternoon at leisure. A pre-trek briefing will be given around 5pm where arrangements will be made for the distribution of your kit bag, sleeping bag and down/fibre fill jacket. Evening drinks are held in the hotel for all World Expeditions clients arriving today. Drinks and snacks will generally be served from
6:30 pm until 7:15pm, and this is a great opportunity to get acquainted with your fellow group members before heading out to dinner.
Meals: NIL
DAY 2 Gear Check & Half Day Sightseeing Tour. Rest of day at leisure.
This morning a group meeting with gear check will be held and at this time any necessary items will be hired or purchased. A group sightseeing tour has been arranged, taking in the key attractions in and around Kathmandu. If time does not permit, the tour can be taken after the expedition when there is a full day at leisure in Kathmandu. Notwithstanding, the hotel is centrally located and a
short walk from shops, cafes and other features of interest.
Meals: B
DAY 3 Fly to Lukla (2800m) & commence trekking to Sarno Gumila (approx 2800m)
An early start to the airport to catch the 45 minute flight to the STOL airstrip at Lukla. It is a memorable flight, with marvellous views of the Eastern Himalaya. Our crew and porters assemble and if all goes well, we commence trekking the first day.xcolreturnxWe head downhill towards the Dudh Kosi, a raging river that drains the southern flanks of all the peaks of the Everest region. The
broad and well-marked trail leads to Namche Bazaar, however we elect to follow an alternative route that leads up to the Sherpa capital by crossing the river, at Ghat, and traversing the steeper, forested slopes that see little trekking and trading traffic. Our aim throughout this expedition is to weave in and out of these busier trails and explore some of the more remote and preserved parts of the Khumbu.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 4 To Jorsale (approx 2800m)
The steep slopes and streams we traverse around, run down from Kwangde peak (6187m) and Nupla (5885m), and are less suited to farming resulting in fewer inhabitants. An army training camp is found here and a few small settlements where farmers graze their yaks in higher pastures up around Kwangde. We enjoy the thick forests of chir pine and views eastward to Kusum Kanguru
Himal as we follow the valley toward Namche. Camp is set in a pleasant, secluded site in the forest.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 5 To Namche Bazaar (3440m)
Moving on, we cross the thundering glacial river, named "Dudh" (milk) Kosi (river) because of its colour and rejoin the main trail from here. There seems to be a never ending trail of yaks and people; local traders, commuters and trekkers, all making their way up to or down from the busy market village of Namche Bazaar. The climb of approx 600 metres from the valley floor and river junction of the Dudh Kosi and Bhote Kosi is wide and winding and good preparation for our many ahead in the program. To our right as we ascend, we can see the beautiful jagged peaks of Thamserku (6808m) with Kang Taiga (6780m) behind. Eventually we round a corner in the trail and enter the bowl where the town is situated, completely enveloped by rugged slopes and mountains.
Our accommodation in Namche is in a lodge for convenience and practicality, one that is exclusive for World Expeditions trekkers and set at the top of this busy market town.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 6 In Namche
A day in Namche is an important part of our acclimatisation process and can be used to explore the area. It is our first opportunity to see Mt Everest, as well as many other peaks of the region. The 'Panda's Ears' of Kang Taiga, next to Thamserku, can be seen more clearly, as well as Ama Dablam (6860m), Taweche and Cholatse, and further away, Lhotse and Nuptse shrouding Mt Everest. As we
trek higher over the coming weeks we will see these peaks and many more from differing perspectives.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 7 To Phortse (3750m)
Trekking behind and away from Namche we pass by the Everest View Hotel and the lovely tall conifers that surround the knoll it is situated upon. In the large basin behind set below the high cliffs of Khumbila peak lie the towns of Khumjung and Khunde. We traverse towards the Imja Khola, over a small ridge at Mong La and a number of steep staircases to descend to the river at Phortse Tenga. Crossing the river, we leave trekking groups and yak trains behind, and climb steadily up through fine forest of silver birch, fir and rhododendron toward Phortse. In this region more fauna is likely to be spotted than perhaps anywhere else in Khumbu; look out for impeyan pheasant, Nepal's national bird, blood pheasant, musk deer and Himalayan thar. Camp is set in one of the lower terraces.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 8 To Tore (4200m)
This true left bank of the Dudh Kosi and Gokyo Valley is steep, spectacular and little travelled, making for good adventure trekking. As we follow high yak herders trails to the head of the valley, we gain a good view across to Kyajo Ri (6186m) and rocky peaks that run parallel to us as well as the continuum of villages beneath them servicing the main trail and used in the summer for grazing
by the farmers of Khumjung and Khunde. Camp is made in a spectacular setting among yak pastures at Tore.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 9 To Dragnag (4700m)
We continue traversing the slopes, passing through small clusters of forest and smaller shrubs of juniper and dwarf rhododendron, past Machhermo on the opposite side of the valley, and to an expanse of braided streams that flow down from the immense Ngozumpa glacier and associated mountains.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 10 Day trip to Gokyo/Gokyo Ri
A day is set aside to rest from our routine, and also make a side trip up to Gokyo and Gokyo Ri (hillock). This is one of the prettiest locations of the Khumbu, a succession of azure blue glacial lakes set beneath towering, rugged peaks dusted in snow, and tremendous views attained from slopes above Gokyo. The one to one and a half hour hike up Gokyo Ri beside the village and the
large Gokyo Lake is well worth the effort for our first panoramic Himalayan views. In clear weather there are good views across to Mt Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse and close by; Mt Cho Oyu.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 11 Rest Day / Side trip
We have time to make some exploratory walks towards the Kanchung La pass to the north of the Cho La pass.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 12 To high camp above Dragnag (5200m)
Taking our ascent rate steadily, we follow the main trail towards the Cho La pass, up rolling grassy slopes and then moraine to a camp at 5200 metres. We are situated in a pretty side valley opposite the Cho La.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 13 Over Cho La (5,420) and on to Dzongla (4843m)
We start early to take advantage of the firm snow conditions and what is usually the most stable weather conditions. It may take us approximately two hours to reach the saddle of this glaciated pass and we are rewarded with expansive views. The crossing is not technical (ie requiring specialised equipment) but good boots, gaiters and a walking pole are useful. As we cross the pass we enter the Khumbu valley and a whole new vista of peaks, the near vertical north aspects of Cholatse and Taweche, Ama Dablam, Makalu off in the distance and Lobuche East rearing up to our north. The descent is not quite as steep as the climb and more snowy to begin with, as we follow a glacier down to its terminus before the valley drops off steeply in a series of glacier polished cliffs that somehow allow us through quite easily. We descend to camp down in the valley at our base camp for Lobuche, which is off to the left of the main trail in moraine.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 14 Preparatory Day at Base Camp
At our Base camp now, we are able to pull out all our climbing gear; sort and check it, and rehearse and revise techniques we will use on the climb. Your guide will coordinate these activities to ensure everyone is completely conversant in procedures and correctly equipped. It will only be necessary to take personal gear for the climb with you up to the high camp, and this will include your sleeping
bag and mattress. Group gear, such as tents, food, fuel and group climbing equipment/ropes etc will be carried up by some of our porters and staff. The remainder of gear will be stored at base camp where some of our staff will also stay until our return.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 15 To High Camp on Lobuche East (5400m)
We move up to a high camp on the mountain, and it should take us about four hours to climb up bouldery scree and some snow to the site of high camp. We are set on a small expanse of snow or rock, above a deep, blue lake and close to the mountain. Here tents are shared so as to keep the load numbers down and its early to bed for a very early alpine start.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 16 Attempt summit of Lobuche Far East (6119m) and return to base camp
An early start (around 2.30am) sees us climbing the south East Ridge, which is a mixture of moderately steep snow and ice. Where necessary, we fix ropes along the route. We ascend steadily to a plateau at around 6000m, and then traverse around to an exposed ridge, which we will follow to the summit slopes. Approximately six hours of steady climbing brings us to the far eastern summit.
From here it is a steady climb along the summit ridge towards the east summit, which for us marks our summit. The main summit is not far in distance but requires some technical climbing which is normally beyond the ability of novice climbers, certainly in terms of the time it would take. This final section of the climb is not for the faint-hearted, as there are huge drops on both sides, so this
section will definitely be fixed with a rope. From the top we are well rewarded with superb views across to Ama Dablam , Makalu, Lhotse, Everest, Nuptse, Changtse (in Tibet) Pumori, Gyachung Kang, Cho Oyu and the myriad peaks to the west and south. After a full day's climbing, we retrace our steps back to High Camp, pack up, then with weary legs head down to base camp. The day's
climb could be anywhere between ten and fifteen hours, depending on conditions and our progress.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 17 Contingency Day
Today has been a set aside as a contingency day.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 18 To Bibre (4500m)
A lovely day's trekking down and along some very scenic Himalayan valleys. We trek past the turquoise Chola Lake, beneath the peak of Taweche and cross the trail that leads to Everest base camp at Dughla where we cut across to Dingboche in the valley of the Imja Khola. Bibre is an old settlement, about an hour's walk past Dingboche, with stone huts, and a good strip for a game of
cricket.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 19 To Island Peak Base Camp (Island Peak is also known as Imja Tse, meaning Island Peak in Sherpa).
Moving up the Imja valley, between Ama Dablam, Lhotse and a panorama of other peaks, we ascend onto lateral moraine to a camp in an ablation valley above the normal base camp for the climb.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 20 To Summit of Island Peak (6189m) and return to Base Camp (5090m)
An alpine start sees us climbing steeply up the lower flanks of the south-east face. The track is well used as this is a popular peak. At times there is a bit of rock scrambling and the rocky spur takes us to a snow ramp that leads to the upper snow fields. The peaks of Makalu and Lhotse come into view as we climb higher. Upon crossing the upper neve, it is necessary to fix ropes up a short but steep ice face that leads on to the summit ridge. The summit ridge is a classic alpine ridge and quite exposed, (we fix ropes here also) and traverse our way to the summit. Although Island Peak appears dwarfed by the seven and eight thousanders surrounding it, it provides a magnificent vantage point to all the peaks south of the stupendous Lhotse face. After some exhilarating moments on the
summit we descend by the same route to our base.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 21 To Bibre (4580m)
Although we are now on our return journey to Lukla, there should be time to make a side trip to the Kongma La pass and Pokhalde peak, for further spectacular views across the Khumbu. Today is an easy day descending the Imja valley from base camp, through Chukkung village to Bibre. Ama Dablam is immediately opposite us, with Pokhalde immediately above.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 22 To Kongma La Lakes (5565m)
Trekking directly up the grassy slopes above our camp, we gain even more stunning views across to Ama Dablam and it's north face. It is also a good vantage point of Island Peak and an opportunity to observe our route on the mountain; with Lhotse and Nuptse above. It will take us about a half day to reach a camp, set about 100 metres below Kongma La near a lake. If time allows, there is a
small glacier about one hour away, where we can do some ice climbing.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 23 Side trip to Pokhalde Peak (5795m) and return
Our program is flexible today, with the general aim being to trek and scramble to the summit of Pokhalde. It should take us approx 2/3 hrs to reach the top with the last section probably requiring some fixed ropes. The views are superb; 360 degrees of Himalayan peaks and directly down the Dudh Kosi valley. Descent should take us 1 to 1.5hrs and back into camp for lunch.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 24 To Orsho (4100m)
Now we are really on our way homeÖ.We descend from our camp to the main valley, and then trek down through yak pastures and tundra to our camp at Orsho.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 25 To Phunki Khola (3500m)
Descending the valley further we pass Pangboche on the opposite side of the river and then climb through an enchanting sub-alpine forest and lovely clearings where yaks graze to Tengboche where there is a large well kept monastery after which the location is named. The trail then winds down through chir pine to the river once again, and our camp.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 26 To Namche Bazaar (3440m)
Our program is somewhat flexible for the return journey to Lukla, in that we should have some spare time available to take a leisurely pace and camp where we please. Namche is the principal town in Khumbu, and it is an opportunity to explore the markets and watch the activity. We may stop here, in a lodge above the town, or continue on our way, down valley to Monjo.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 27 Spare Day
Today has been a set aside as a contingency day.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 28 To Lukla (2800m)
We descend the slopes of Namche to the Dudh Kosi joining the main trail to follow at riverside through numerous villages to Phakding. On crossing the bridge, we trek a short distance up and around, to the broad flat spur that Lukla lies upon. We set up camp on the green slopes at the lower end of the runway. The last night is always memorable for an end of trip celebration with all
the crew and porters.
Meals: B, L, D
DAY 29 Fly to Kathmandu (1330m)
This morning, fingers crossed, we fly by Twin Otter aircraft to Kathmandu and transfer to the Radisson Hotel. The remainder of the day is at leisure to rest, relax or explore and shop in the town.
Meals: B
DAY 30 Day at leisure in Kathmandu
If the group sight-seeing tour has not been taken, it will be scheduled for today; including visits to Pashupatinath, Boudnath, Patan and Durbar Square in central Kathmandu. There are many choices of how you may spend your leisure time on this last day, whether it be shopping and sightseeing or just relaxing around the hotel and it's terrace pool.
Meals: B
DAY 31 Trip concludes Kathmandu
The trip concludes in Kathmandu after breakfast with a transfer to the airport.
Meals: B
Other Details
Accommodation Details
accommodation at the Radisson Hotel in Kathmandu
