Inca Pathways of Choquequirao

A challenging Andean Trek Between Two Lost Inca Cities

CHOQUEQUIRAO - meaning 'Cradle of Gold' in Quechua - is a vast Inca settlement located high on a ridge overlooking the mighty Apurimac River. Set deep in the Andes, at 3,100 metres above sea level, Choquequirao is fabulously inaccessible, and is believed to have once rivalled Machu Picchu in size and importance. Only recently rediscovered, much of the huge archaeological complex is still being restored and is just beginning to open up.

CUSCO & THE SACRED VALLEY
We make the historical city of Cusco our base for our first four days, allowing time to acclimatise and prepare for the trek ahead. Here we include several hikes in the Sacred Valley - one visits the fascinating Salt-Pans near Moray, that have been utilised for generations by communities living in the region, another walk leads between several interesting Inca ruins a short distance from Cusco. We also have the opportunity to raft the white waters of the Urubamba River, before driving to the start of our trek, in the small village of Cachora.

THE LOST CITY OF CHOQUEQUIRAO
Beginning our 8 day, fully-supported trek, it takes us two days to reach Choquequirao. The ruins of this Lost City received their first foreign visitor, an intrepid French explorer during the 18th Century, and Hiram Bingham followed in 1910 - one year before his discovery of Machu Picchu. Since them the settlement has seen few visitors, and we camp here for two nights to fully appreciate this magical location.

TREK TO MACHU PICCHU
Leaving Choquequirao, we continue with 5 further days trekking through the Andes towards the legendary Machu Picchu. Though not technically difficult, reaching heights of up to 4500 metres above sea level on deserted pathways this trek is not for the faint-hearted or inexperienced walker! But those who take the challenge will enjoy stunning mountain scenery, see magnificent Andean plant and animal life, and adventure through several incredible Lost Cities of the Incas.

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Itinerary / Highlights

Among the many highlights on this tour, we particularly mention:

CUSCO
Capital City of the Incas; Guided tour to Inca site of Saqsaywaman.

SACRED VALLEY OF THE INCAS
Walking in the valley.

ANDES
Hikes in the dramatic Andean Highlands.

CHOQUEQUIRAO & MACHU PICCHU
Visits to the ‘lost' Inca cities in the mountains.

DAY 1. FRIDAY. JOIN TOUR LIMA

Arrive Lima and check-in at hotel.

DAY 2. FLY TO CUSCO, CITY VISIT

Departing Lima today we fly on to Cusco, the old capital of the Inca Empire and the oldest continuously inhabited city on the continent. Imbued with an atmosphere of mystery and grandeur, the Spanish-style city of today, with its attractive pink tiled roofs, arcaded plazas and steep winding alleyways, stands upon tremendous Inca foundation stones.

The interlocking stones, assembled so carefully that a knife blade cannot be forced between the multi-sided joints, were highly functional as well as beautiful & they are earthquakeproof! Upon arrival we will transfer to our hotel after which we will have a guided tour of this atmospheric city, to see important Inca and Colonial monuments, such as the Inca wall of Hatunrumiyoc with its famous twelve-sided stone. The stone, measuring some 5 feet across, has the typical bevelled joints, which create the patterns of light and shadow on Inca walls.

DAY 3. AM BUS TO PISAC, RETURN VIA THE CUSCO RUINS OF SAQSAYWAMAN

This morning we take a bus to the town of Pisac. Strategically located at the head of the Urubamba Valley, Pisac once controlled the road connecting the Inca Empire with Paucartambo on its eastern borders and the magnificent Inca ruins that once so dominated this valley still occupy the mountainside above the town. A quiet colonial village most of the time, Pisac shakes off its somnolent feel with the arrival of the Sunday market, when locals (and tourists) from miles around come to buy, sell and barter in the main square.

On market days the square is awash with vendors trading local produce for medicines and tools and there are bargains to be had amongst the weavers and potters. We will stay here a while, soaking up the ambience and the atmosphere before heading back towards Cusco. On our way back we plan to visit the nearby ruins, including Qenko, Tambo Machay and Puca Pucara and Cusco's fortresscitadel, Saqsaywaman.

Built to defend the Inca capital, Saqsaywaman broods high above the town, its huge, zigzagging stone walls broken into 66 sharply projecting angles to catch attackers in a withering crossfire. Meant to represent the head of a puma, 20,000 conscripted workers toiled for 90 years to finish it and it was the site of one of the most fiercely fought battles of the Spanish conquest, when the Incas made one last ditch attempt to drive out the Spanish, an attempt that ended in defeat and death for thousands of Incas. We plan to walk the 8km back to Cusco from the Puca Pucara ruins, visiting the other sites on our way back to the Plaza del Armas.

DAYS 4 & 5. HIKING IN THE SACRED VALLEY; OPTIONAL RAFTING

Taking a bus this morning we drive out to the Sacred Valley, the stunningly beautiful river valley whose rich alluvial plains were so well exploited by the ancient Incas. We begin at the site of Moray, famous for its fascinating Inca terraces, known locally as the laboratory of the Incas. These terraces were believed to have been carved on different levels by the Incas, in order to experiment with their crops, each being carved to different depths in order to try and ascertain the ideal conditions in which to grow them. Many still believe the site to possess magical powers and there is certainly no doubting the atmospheric feel and stunning location of the site.

Once we have had a chance to visit we will continue onto the saltpans at Salinas, near the town of Maras,where hot springs at the top of the valley have been diverted into terraced saltpans. Originally exploited by the Incas the practice still goes on today, producing salt licks for the local people and cattle. Later this afternoon we return to Cusco by bus. Our final day in Cusco is free to enjoy some optional white-water rafting on the Urubamba River & no previous experience is necessary and all safety equipment is provided.

Alternatively you may wish to return to Pisac and visit the Inca ruins that we briefly saw on Sunday. One of the largest Inca ruins in the region, their commanding position overlooking the plains of Urubamba afford some stunning views of the surrounding terraces, with deep spectacular gorges either side. The ruins themselves comprise stone terraces, temples and the ruined citadel with its magnificent Temple of the Sun, a worthy match for any of the temples at Machu Picchu.

DAY 6. DRIVE TO CACHORA, BEGIN TREK

Departing Cusco this morning we drive to the south side of the Apurimac River, to the small town of Cachora and our starting point for the trek. Meeting up with our mules and guides we begin walking up the path to Capulilloq (2,800m), a two hour hike from where we will get the first of many incredible views down onto the Apurimac River, the archaelogical complex of Choquequirao and the snow capped peaks of Padrayoc and Wayna Cachora beyond.

From here we descend towards Coca Masama (2,330m), where the climate becomes noticeably warmer and where there is a marked change in the surrounding flora and fauna. As we descend we pass through dry forest and below us the turbulent waters of the Apurimac are clearly visible.

Translated from the local Quechua, Apurimac means the river that speaks, an all too obvious epithet given its raging condition in places. Arriving at Playa Rosalina (1,750 m) we set up camp beside the river and settle down for our first night under the stars. Total walking time approx 8 hours.

DAY 7. PLAYA ROSALINA TO CHOQUEQUIRAO

After breakfast we begin the long hard walk up to Santa Rosa. Following the steep path up it will take us about 3 hours to reach there, where we will stop for some doubtless much needed refreshments, before continuing on up towards Marampata. A steep zigzag climb will bring us onto a plateau, from where the trail flattens out as we follow the canyon towards Choquequirao.

On the far side of the valley we can see the Huanpaca waterfall and as we approach the first sight of the terraces of Choquequirao keep your eyes open for spectacled bears. The terraces lie in different microclimates along the valley, enabling the ancient farmers to produce a variety of crops; fruit and vegetables in the lower, warmer climates and the much needed staples for survival on the upper reaches. Finally we reach the Citadel of Choquequirao (3,085m) where we set up camp for the night. Total walking time approx 6 hours.

DAY 8. IN CHOQUEQUIRAO

Built during the reign of Inca Pachacutec this vast complex exceeds even the mighty Machu Picchu in size and to date only about 30 % of it has been uncovered. Believed to have once been an important trading centre, linking the jungle regions to the major complexes of Pisac and Machu Picchu, the site is divided into nine sectors, including political and religious quarters.

The site's main areas include the Lower Plaza, considered by many to be the focal centre of the entire city and the quality of the stonework, along with the significance of double-jammed doorways indicates that it was used by high ranking members of the Inca elite. There is also the Upper Plaza, reached by a set of impressive steps, believed to have possibly contained ritual baths, leading some experts to speculate that this was the reserve of the Inca priesthood.

The designs of the city follow the symbolism of the imperial capital, with palaces dedicated to the sun, earth and water. The outlying buildings are still buried under a tangled web of vegetation, teeming with brightly coloured orchids and a walk up to the hilltop plateau of the Unsu, will afford spectacular 360 degree views across the valley and, with luck, the sight of a Condor or two. The ruins were first described in the 18th century by the famous explorer Hiram Bingham, the man who went on to discover Machu Pichu.

Visiting the restored section of the citadel this morning we will explore the recently discovered ruins with our guides and after lunch there will be ample opportunity to continue exploring at your leisure, perhaps taking a walk down to the Casa Cascada, before returning to the Unsu to enjoy a spectacular sunset over the Apurimac Canyon.

DAYS 9 TO 12. HIKING THE INCA PATHWAYS TO MACHU PICCHU

After breakfast we leave Choquequirao and begin walking towards the Rio Blanco (white river). Passing once more into scrub and dry forest we get some glorious views of the Apurimac Canyon then continue down to the Rio Blanco where we will stop for lunch. After lunch we then begin the arduous climb up through thick forest to our next campsite. A four hour climb brings us out onto a stunning plateau overlooking the forest below, where we will spend the night, in the shadow of dramatic glacial peaks.

The next morning we continue climbing, towards San Juan Pass (3,600m), following a trail that takes us through cloudforest and past mountain cedars as it winds its way up to the pass. The area is alive with a profusion of bird and mammal life, including spectacled bears, eagles and the odd condors. We also pass by old silver mines en route, dating from the 19th century.

We then continue , heading down into the Rio Yanama Valley, passing fields of wildflowers as we make our way down the steep path to the village of Yanama (3,750m). We will have our lunch and camp this evening in this settlement. Our third and fourth days' walking takes us through snow covered mountains and into jungle, passing fruit and coffee fields en route.

From Yanama we take the path to La Rinconada where we will stop for lunch, before continuing on to Totora for the night. The following day we continue down, travelling through thick forest until we arrive at the valley floor, where a profusion of grassy meadows leads us to our destination in La Playa. Avearge daily walking time approx 7 hours.

DAY 13. FINAL DAY'S HIKING TO AQUAS

Calientes via Mirador and Llaqtapata Crossing the river this morning we descend and, weather permitting, we get our first look at Machu Picchu; an exceptional view with the city ringed by hills and overshadowed by the snowy peaks of the Urumbamba Range. We continue walking, into the Rio Urumbaba Valley, following the railway tracks down to the Hydroelectric train station where we will have our lunch.

Taking the local train we finally arrive at our simple accomodation in the town of Aquas Calientes, situated on the valley floor and in the upper reaches of the cloud forest. Tonight we recommend a dip in the thermal springs, a relaxing way to ease away the rigours of the past few days. Total walking time approx 6 hours.

DAY 14. VISIT MACHU PICCHU, TRAIN TO CUSCO

Catching the first bus this morning we head up to the citadel and may catch the sunrise over the incredible complex of Machu Picchu. The rest of the morning is spent in this magnificent city, probably the most astounding feat of engineering in all of ancient America. Temples, stairways, palaces and gabled stone dwellings are scattered everywhere, testifying to the energy and ingenuity of the builders.

Not without reason is this site probably the most revered tourist attraction in the Americas. Its location alone is dramatic in the extreme, teetering on the saddle of a high mountain peak that towers above the valley below, its backdrop a blanket of forested mountains.

Believed to have been built in the mid 15th century by Pachacutec, the city was rediscovered in 1911 by Hiram Bingham. Thought to have been a major agricultural centre for the Inca empire, the city's very inaccessability seems to have preserved it from the looters of the intervening years, resulting in the remarkably well restored ruins that we see today.

We will have a guided tour of the site, taking in the major highlights of this vast complex and those who wish to will have the opportunity to climb Huayna Picchu mountain and admire the site from a different perspective. Later in the afternoon we return to Aquas Calientes to catch our train back to Cusco.

DAY 15. IN CUSCO, FREE DAY

Today is free to relax, do some sightseeing and perhaps some last minute shopping.

DAY 16. FLY TO LIMA

This morning we transfer to the airport for our flight back to Lima. Founded in 1535 and called the City of Kings, Lima today is both ancient and modern. On arrival there may be time to partake in an optional city tour and perhaps visit the Gold Museum, featuring one of South America's best collections of historical costumes and weaponry.

Alternatively you may just wish to stroll through Plaza San Martin and Bolivar and enter the fascinating Catacombs of the convent of San Francisco, or pass through the colonial squares and under the intricate modern balconies of old Lima, seeing some of the city's best surviving examples of colonial architecture.

DAY 17. SUNDAY. TOUR ENDS LIMA

Other Details

Accommodation Details

8nts hotel
1nt hostal
7nts camping